The Deadly Legacy of UXO in Laos
Laos is ‘contaminated’ by UXO (unexploded ordinance) which kills and maims people and renders land unusable. Laos accounts for more than half of all confirmed
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Riding the Legendary Ho Chi Minh Trail in Laos: A Journey Through History
An Adventurous Ride Through History
Hidden deep in some of the most isolated parts of Laos, the Ho Chi Minh Trail is both a challenging ride and a historical journey, perfect for motorcyclists who wish to experience the remnants of this once-crucial military supply line firsthand. Motorcycle touring tips and tricks can be invaluable here, as the rugged terrain demands both skill and preparation for long-distance motorcycle riding.
The Journey Begins: Winning the War
Once a vital supply route for North Vietnamese forces during the Vietnam War, the Trail is now a network of overgrown paths, bomb craters, and cobblestone trails that offer a rare glimpse into the past. The significance of the Ho Chi Minh Trail cannot be overstated—it was a lifeline for the North Vietnamese, playing a crucial role in their eventual victory. Today, it beckons adventurous riders with a love of history and a taste for rugged, off-road challenges, making it an ideal route for motorcycle touring.
The Mu Gia Pass
The Ho Chi Minh Trail tour starts in Vientiane and heads south to the Mu Gia Pass, a key gateway from North Vietnam into Laos. During the war, this pass was one of the main entry points into the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The landscape tells the story of its violent past—bomb craters litter the mountainsides, and remnants of war, such as jet fighter wings, truck parts, helmets, fuel tanks and AAA guns, are scattered in villages. These sites serve as a haunting reminder of the Trail’s history while providing a unique backdrop for motorcycle touring.
The Phanop Valley: Valley of No Return
One of the most striking areas on the Ho Chi Minh Trail is the Phanop Valley, often referred to as the “Valley of No Return” by US pilots. This lush, green valley surrounded by jagged limestone karst was a critical section of the Ho Chi Minh Trail that experienced some of the heaviest bombardments of the entire war. The valley is entirely full of bomb craters and was the site of the largest rescue mission of a downed US pilot in the whole Vietnam War.
A Ride Through Challenging Terrain
A superb single-track ride through the jungle takes us to the Ban Laboy Ford and the Ban Karai Pass, which played a crucial role in the logistics of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Further south, we reach the Chokes, a name used by US pilots to describe a series of narrow, treacherous sections of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Motorcycle riders can still see the original Ho Chi Minh Trail cobblestones in ‘tunnels’ through the jungle.
The Headquarters of the North Vietnamese High Command
One of the most historically significant sites on the tour is the headquarters of the North Vietnamese high command. Deep in the Laos jungle near Sepon, this hidden tunnel complex was where many of the war’s key strategies were planned and executed. Further north of Sepon is a cave with enormous petrol tanks still in it that formed the backbone of the pipeline the North Vietnamese built to keep their trucks running. This site adds an extra layer of historical context to your motorcycle touring adventure.
The Lam Son 719 Battle
The Ho Chi Minh Trail motorcycle tour visits the area where the Lam Son 719 Battle took place. In 1971, South Vietnamese forces launched an invasion of Laos, supported by the US, in an attempt to cut off the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The battle ended in disaster for the South Vietnamese. This area provides both a sobering historical reflection and a challenging ride, perfect for those looking to push their long-distance motorcycle trip to the limits.
Exploring Remote Forest and Villages
A North Vietnamese base area lies hidden in the escarpment above Sepon, and inside this deep jungle are small trails that all dirt bikers will relish. Wildlife thrives in this remote part of Laos, and the few villages in this region are incredibly isolated. Local people live much as they did during the war, relying on subsistence farming and the jungle for survival. These trails offer a mix of history, adventure, and natural beauty, making motorcycle touring in Laos a unique experience.
The Most Challenging Sections of the Trail
Further south, we ride a 200-metre-long bamboo bridge and follow original cobblestones in the deep jungle on the most challenging section of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. We pass an old Chinese tank and a Russian SAM-2 surface-to-air missile, before enjoying a well earned rest on the banks of the Sekong River.
Heading Back North
We loop back northwards on single tracks through wonderful forest to the ruins of Tad Lo Bridge, once a crossing point on the Ho Chi Minh Trail, until US forces destroyed it. We continue our tour northwards into ‘The Hub’ before heading westwards to the Mekong River to enjoy the French colonial charm of Thakhet town.
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By Digby Greenhalgh
Digby Greenhalgh is the founder of Explore Indochina, and a recognized expert on the Ho Chi Minh Trail. All motorcycle tours are designed and guided by Digby.
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